A strong case for an indoor pizza oven

Two years ago, Oni started the indoor pizza party with Volt 12. With that device, the company entered new territory and proved that its brand of outdoor cooking could be adapted for use in the home kitchen. However, that model also had some drawbacks, including its bulky size and high price. Still, it impressed me enough to earn a spot on our best pizza oven list.

With the Volt 2 ($699), Oni completely changed the concept of what an electric indoor pizza oven could be. It starts with a more refined design that’s slightly smaller than the first generation. The company also reconfigured the controls, creating a button-based system that is easier to understand and focused on newly developed Pizza Intelligence technology. Given Oni’s track record for stability and performance, it should come as no surprise that the Volt 2 pizza oven is another hit for the manufacturer.

design update

As part of Oni’s redesign for the Volt 2, the exterior looks completely different, right down to the updated controls and larger digital display. This new model has a sleeker, more modern aesthetic – one that will definitely fit in with today’s small kitchen appliances. The overall design is soft and rounded, whereas the first version was angular and blocky. Additionally, Oni opted for a white version in addition to its standard grey, giving you the flexibility to choose the option that best suits your kitchen. There’s also a new orange light that shines on the counter, or whatever surface you have the Volt 2 on, which serves as an indicator that the oven is preheating.

On the front, a collection of buttons have replaced the three control knobs and small dials from the Volt 12. There’s one for each of Ooni’s new Pizza Intelligence-powered presets and additional options for dough proofing, oven, and broil/grill modes. The last two buttons in the main cluster on the left are for saving custom presets. Closer to the center, there are three buttons for temperature control, crisping intensity, and timer. To set any of them, you’ll use the big silver knob on the right side. This knob also doubles as boost activation when you need extra power from the top heating element.

Ooni has also installed a new digital display on the front, which gives you temperature and timer updates at a glance. This is a vast improvement over the dial of the Volt 12, which could not be read from a distance. With the big numbers on the Volt 2, if I want an update on the preheating process I can just walk up to the kitchen door and peek inside.

There are other improvements, such as the larger viewing window on the front door, but one major thing the Volt 2 lacks is its size. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still a great device; That’s about the size of a low-profile microwave. It’s still quite heavy at around 39 pounds. But Oni managed to shave off a few inches here and there, and when combined with the rounder design cues, it makes the Volt 2 seem like it’s not as huge or impressive as the Volt 12.

new features

Almost all of the Volt 2’s new features are centered around what Oni calls Pizza Intelligence. The technology is an adaptive control system for the oven that uses unique heating elements and internal sensors. According to the company, the setup can adjust the oven’s temperature in real time “for speed, accuracy, and baking consistency.” This technique serves as the basis for the style-based presets I already mentioned.

More specifically, the Volt 2’s presets include Neapolitan, Thin & Crispy, and Pan Pizza that enable you to start cooking without thinking too much about time and temperature. All of these can be adjusted as each has a temperature range for further fine tuning. Each has its own specific crispiness intensity and cooking temperature, both of which can be changed as needed.

After using all the presets during testing, I like that Ooni has made its second pizza oven easier to use for beginners. Even though I have some experience making pizza at home (thanks COVID-19), it was nice to not have to worry about timing and temperatures in my research and planning. For more advanced users, the ability to use presets as a starting point and tweak parameters will ensure the Volt 2 remains a kitchen staple for a long time. Plus, two slots for completely custom presets mean Oni experts will have room to save their sophisticated, personalized configurations.

Making Pizza with Volt 2

You’re probably wondering how this stuff tastes good on pizza, right? After all, design skills, features and specifications mean nothing if the end result is terrible. That’s not the case here, nor has it been the case on any Ooni oven I’ve tested. I especially enjoy cooking pizza with the Volt 2 (and previously the Volt 12) because I can do so in the comfort of my own kitchen. Everything I need immediately is nearby and there are no open flames to maintain or monitor for safety.

First, let’s discuss preheating. Ooni says the Volt 2 can be ready to cook pizza in 12 minutes, and I guess that’s true if you’re baking at a lower temperature. In my tests, it took exactly 25 minutes for the oven to reach its maximum of 850-degrees Fahrenheit (ideal for Neapolitan pie) and just over 18 minutes to reach 660 degrees. That latter figure is the target temperature for the Thin & Crispy preset, which was my favorite of the three Pizza Intelligence options. Both of these save time using your home oven since a lot of recipes call for you to preheat that appliance for an hour.

A major consideration with the Volt 2 is the size of the pizza. The oven’s baking stone can accommodate 12-inch pizzas, meaning family pizza night will involve everyone doing at least some of their own cooking or baking several pies. For my family, I made four during my Neapolitan test, pulling off and topping each new pizza after the previous one was baked. After removing the pizza, the temperature of the stone drops, but the Volt 2’s Boost feature uses 45-second bursts to help recover this. I found that by the time I carefully stretched and topped the dough, the oven was ready for the next pizza.

In Neapolitan, Thin & Crispy, and Pan Pizza modes, the Volt 2 produced really great results for each style. I will note that I have used the dough recipe for each style Oni Pizza Project By Scott Daly. I’ve found that their guidance produces amazing pizza, even if you plan to use your home oven. Using Volt 2, the Neapolitan pie had plenty of tartness and cooked quickly at high heat. The thin, New York-style pizza was indeed crispy on the bottom and perfectly browned on the top, while still having a pleasant chewy flavor. And my Detroit-style pan tests were crisp on the edges and pillowy soft inside.

There are two important things to note about using the Volt 2. First, the exterior gets hot, especially at 800 degrees and above. For this reason, you’ll want to avoid placing anything on top of (or indeed very close to) the oven while it’s in use. You will need to allow sufficient time for the exterior of the Volt 2 to cool before storing it. The oven runs its own shutdown cycle, but even after completion the exterior may become too hot to remove.

Second, despite the steam and smoke filters, the Volt 2 still vents steam out the back. I combated this by placing the oven below the exhaust fan on my flat-top stove, but you’ll have to plan accordingly if you don’t want this mess all over your kitchen. I can see this being a problem for small living spaces like apartments.

Competition

If you’re looking for a Volt alternative, there are two main competitors. The longtime incumbent is Breville’s Pizzaiolo. It also offers easy-to-use presets and features apart from manual operation to some extent. My main issue with it was its price, which was initially $1,000 but is now $800. That lower price is still $100 more than the Volt 2. I was also bothered by the limited round baking area and how difficult it is to clean the oven because debris can fall around the lower heating element.

It also has the current Model P. It wins the price war at under $500 and has presets and a max temperature of 850 degrees. The Current app has a pizza build calculator that helps with times, temperatures, and ingredients. I haven’t tested it yet, but it’s on my list for the near future.

wrap up

There is no second year recession here. The Volt 2 is a huge upgrade over the original Volt – that can’t be denied. It’s easy to use for all skill levels due to its clear controls and large display. The presets work well, but they can also serve as a starting point for experienced users to further refine recipes. And pizza – oh my god, the pizza is consistently restaurant quality (or better) in many styles. Combine that performance with a better-looking design, slightly smaller footprint, and lower starting price and you’ve got a compelling case for a standalone indoor pizza oven.